View from Black Butte Ranch

Crater Lake Bike Tour

McKenzie Bridge to Black Butte Ranch — Monday September 2, 2002 | Next

We McKenzie Pass - Santiam Pass Scenic Bywaycrossed the Cascade Mountains from west to east via McKenzie Pass. We rode on another scenic route called the McKenzie-Santiam Pass scenic byway. Vehicles over 35 feet are prohibited because of the narrow switchbacks near the summit of McKenzie Pass, which meant that we didn't have to contend with many RVs or big trucks. The Bicycle Adventures van and trailer barely qualified to be on the route. Pete met us several times to offer us a boost to the top, but we wanted to go under our own power. The van contained ample stocks of energy bars, dried fruit, fresh fruit, candy, and drinks. Thanks to Bill, we started to refer to the van, otherwise known as the sag wagon, as the snack wagon.

Lunch near Dee Wright ObservatoryEven though it was Labor Day weekend and a beautiful sunny day, traffic was surprising light. We climbed steadily and finally reached Deadhorse Grade, the area of the switchbacks. This part no doubt was named for the poor animals that had to haul wagons up the hill in the old days. About this time Beth and Marco whizzed by. After the tough part of the climb at about 5000 feet, the road leveled out around mile 20 and widened enough so that the van was able to pull out at a lunch spot at about mile 30. We had panoramic views of the surrounding mountains in the distance and close ups of the sparsely-vegetated lava beds. We shared our pasta salad with a hungry cross-country cyclist who was heading in the opposite direction.

After lunch we visited the Dee Wright Observatory, which perches on the jumbled dark brown lava flow near the high point of the pass (5324 feet) and appears to be built out of blocks of lava itself. Mark, Jaz, Kerie and Tim atop Dee Wright Observatory Dee Wright ObservatoryThe observatory offers a 360 degree panorama of the mountain peaks including the Three Sisters, Mt. Jefferson, and even Mt. Hood. Afterwards once again we reaped the reward of the morning climb and enjoyed a 15 mile downhill into the small tourist town of Sisters. The eastern side of the Cascades is drier and the vegetation is mostly scrubby pines. We could see why the threat of wildfires was so great; everything was bone dry. We were parched too.

Finally, the summit of McKenzie PassPete and Beth had warned us that the last stretch of the day's ride would be along the main road Highway 20, so we stopped in Sisters to get a cold drink before making the final push to Black Butte Ranch. Sisters was jumping with holiday weekend visitors. Traffic in town was heavy, but the vehicles almost always yielded to pedestrians, something we hardly ever experience in northern Virginia.

The 6 miles to Black Butte Ranch was indeed a nasty stretch with heavy Labor Day traffic - everything from RVs to hay wagons roared by us, plus we faced a headwind - but the road had a good shoulder. View from our room at Black Butte RanchThis was the only part of the tour when we encountered heavy traffic. Three Sisters mountains from Black Butte RanchWe caught up with Beth, Deb, and Bill and arrived at the Ranch together. We joined the rest of the group sitting in the grass, drinking beer, near the condos where we would spend the next 2 nights. We shuttled to dinner at the Kokanee Cafe in Camp Sherman. I think the meal was the best of the week.

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