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Periodic Progress Report Southern Tier Cross-Country Bicycle Tour

Date(s): Nov. 1, 1999
Day: Monday
From: Oberlin, LA
To: Washington, LA
Lodging: Willie's Washington Campground
Segment Mileage: 59.9
Cumulative Mileage: 2452.0
Actual Riding Time: 4:08
Average Speed: 14.4
Weather: Cool, cloudy
Temp: Low 70's

Today seemed like a short day even though we rode nearly 60 miles. We had a tailwind most of the way and the route was flat, passing through irrigated rice fields and pastures. After riding back into Oberlin to use the phone to send yesterday's report and download email, I tried to catch Oliver, who said he would ride slow this morning. I passed Todd, who, by the way, was the only one of us to have Halloween treats to hand out to us trick-or-treaters last night. He wanted to go at a slow pace today and I rode on ahead, but not so far ahead that I couldn't hear him yell for me to turn left, one of several turns that I either missed or nearly missed today.

I caught up with Oliver, Suzanne, and Jimmy, and we rode together into Mamou. There we saw Cyndi and Bruno and we all stopped at Carl's restaurant, known for its good Cajun food. Lynne, Janet, and Bob were already there, feasting on crab-stuffed shrimp, baked potatoes, and homemade pie. We joined in and I had another breakfast of pancakes and eggs. Across the street was Fred's nightclub, known for its influence on the revival of interest in French culture in Louisiana. An older gentleman, J.W. Fuselier, regaled us with tales of Jimmy's back when he used to tend bar there in the 50's. So far Louisiana folk have been exceedingly friendly, going out of their way to make us welcome.

From Mamou, Jimmy and I ended up riding together into Opalousa, getting filled in on each other's lives as we have rarely ridden together. There was little traffic and the road was good all the way into Opalusa. There I took off to wander around the city, which was hard with all of the one way streets. I have a theory that creating one way streets is a good way to ruin a town, as the main priority becomes moving traffic through the city rather than encouraging motorists and pedestrians to wander the streets. I finally found the courthouse, and a small cafe across the street that served delicious malts, which are milkshakes with a malt flavor. It was just 6 miles to our detination for the day, the small town of Washington, LA, on the banks of Bayou Courtableau. The town was the furthest inland that riverboad traffic from New Orleans could travel in this area, so it became a major transportation and shipping center. Next to the bridge into town is a USGS gaging station, sending streamflow information to computers in my hometown of Reston, VA and elsewhere. [Note from KJH: Bruce used to work for USGS and Kerie still does!) Right now I'm sitting in a beautiful park, Magnolia Ridge, 60 acres of parkland and an antebellum mansion, a much different setting than the busy roads and slightly rundown houses leading into the city. It's time to head back into camp to see what culinary delights Spike and Suzanne have prepared for dinner.

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