November 4, 1999, Rest Day, St. Francisville, LA

Today was a typical "rest day", with most of us running around getting chores done and trying to see all the local sights. Nearly everyone rode into St. Francisville, a 10 mile round trip. Janet and Jim stayed in camp. They seem to be the only true rest day people, knowing how to recover from 8 days of continuous riding. Plus Jim has to do his leader duties, such as planning out the route for the remainder of the trip.

It was cold again this morning, around 34 degrees. We were fortunate to have use of the recreation room even though it was only slightly warmer than the outdoors. I decided not to wait until 10am to get change from the camp office and rode into town instead to use the local "wash house" to do my laundry. While waiting for the clothes to wash I searched for some good decaf coffee (if there is such a thing). The St. Francisville Inn was serving a complementary breakfast to their guests, and the nice woman there let me drop in for a coffee and a muffin. She said that Backroads cycling tours often stop there. I met a couple from southern Louisiana who were touring the local area. Their ancestors were from France but neither spoke French, saying that their grandparents spoke it as their private language but didn't teach their children. The couple knew of Fred's lounge in Mamou and they were involved in the resurgence of interest in French culture in America.

Since I was in town I decided to ride by some of the nearby plantations. It is said that before the Civil War, over half of the wealthy in America owned plantations along the Mississippi. There are about 10 restored plantations around St. Francisville, and they are a major tourist attraction. There wasn't much to see from the road other than the majestic live oak trees that seem characteristic of the plantations. Riding back though town to ride the walking tour through town I ran into Todd, Cyndi, Suzanne, and Bruno who were on foot. It was unfortunate that I didn't have my camera as the light was excellent for good photos of the grounds of Grace Episcopal church with huge live oaks throughout the grounds and cemetery. A tour group was going through and the guide mentioned that during the Civil War the church was hit by cannon balls from a Union ship on the nearby Mississippi River. She also mentioned that a "Yankee" ship captain killed during one of the battles, was buried in the cemetery. The battle was stopped and he was given a formal burial, in part because he was a Mason.

I later met up with the others at the busy Magnolia Cafe and had an excellent lunch. Two local cyclists stopped to talk, one a woman cross country cyclist who rode the Ride for the Cure breast cancer fund raiser last year, and the other, Luke from Baton Rouge, who cycles in the area several times a week from his trailer at the Green Acres campground.

Back at camp Oliver, Jimmy, and Mike had all returned safely from New Orleans and told us about their adventure. They heard lots of good music, ate good food, and generally had a good time. Just before dinner I walked to the nearby Oakley Plantation, where John James Audubon tutored the plantation owner's daughter for 3 months in 1821. While there he completed or began 32 bird paintings, testament to the diversity of bird life in the area. Lynne and Spike were leaving as I arrived for the tour and walk on the grounds.

Todd and Bruno fixed another good dinner, baking sweet and regular potatoes, and with Cyndi's help, making vegetable soup. Janet even chipped in and made two delicious apple pies. What a difference having a stove makes.

After dinner we disussed the remainder of the trip. It seems hard to believe that we have only 16 more days left. The way Jim planned it out, we'll ride 11 days to Spirit of Suwanee campgrounds, in Florida, have a rest day, then ride the final 4 days to St. Augustine, finishing on the 20th.

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