Periodic Progress Report Southern Tier Cross-Country Bicycle Tour

Date(s): Nov. 3, 1999
Day: Wednesday
From: Simmesport, LA
To: St. Francisville, LA
Lodging: Green Acres campground
Segment Mileage: 60.3
Cumulative Mileage: 2581.2
Actual Riding Time: 4:45
Average Speed: 12.6
Weather: Cool, sunny
Temp: 70's

There was frost on our tents when we awoke this morning. Lynne and Cyndi estimated that the temperature got down around 30 last night. I wore my headband, gloves, socks, polypro shirt, fleece sweater, and pants to bed and was still a little cold unless I put my head under the sleeping bag. It was nice to be able to warm up in the community center where Spike and Bob had slept. The sun helped to warm us but we were all bundled up as we left Simmesport.

As we left town, we crossed the Atchafalaya River and we could see the levees on either side. These are earthen walls built over the years to help contain the river when the river would flood and the water level would rise. The first ones were too low but over time they have been built up to their present height. They are also along the Mississippi River that we crossed later in the day.

Shortly after crossing the Atchafalaya River bridge I happened across a large owl in the road, hit by a car; such a majestic bird lying there dead. It had huge talons and I studied it for a minute and left. A little later I rode up onto the levee where there was a large pond with what looked like a couple of alligators and some huge turtles floating around, not an ideal swimming spot.

At Innis I learned that anyone can sell pecans at many of the local stores for 50 cents/pound. I had gathered a nice stash of them but not enough to sell. Shortly afterward I missed another turn and ended up riding an extra 4 miles before I joined the route again where I met up with Bruno and Cyndi on the way to the ferry across the Mississippi. We stopped for a break in front of a small church when 2 abandoned dogs came out from under the porch begging for food We ended up feeding them part of our lunch. They were the only friendly dogs on the route. Several large ones chased me for a long stretch, one a particularly unfriendly Irish Setter showing me its teeth. I gave it a shot of Halt pepper spray and when it barely blinked I was getting worried, but at that point it seemed to slow down enough for me to get away. Suzanne said she uses another method to deter them; she yells in Dutch, which she says works every time.

At the ferry, we discovered that it was closed for repair, and there are no nearby alternatives. There was a rumor that the repairs would take a couple of hours, so we got comfortable and waited. Before long the whole group was there, as no one had made it through. Within an hour it was fixed and loading cars and bikes, dropping us just outside of St. Francisville, a beautiful old Louisiana town with many restored plantations in the vicinity.

We're camped about 5 miles away at the Green Acres RV park, and at 7pm it's freezing and several of us are huddled in the recreation room trying to get warm. Oliver and Jimmy were here yesterday, as evidenced by their tents and bikes. English Mike must be with him as his tent is here as well. They should be back by tomorrow evening. Tomorrow I hope to get some rest on our rest day, although there are a couple of plantations I want to visit and I plan to go into the town to see the sights.