Date(s): Oct. 20, 1999
Day: Wednesday
From: Del Rio, TX
To: Camp Wood, TX
Lodging: Cooksey Park
Segment Mileage: 81.9
Cumulative Mileage: 1739.7
Actual Riding Time: 6:15
Average Speed: 13.0
Weather: Mild, sunny
Temp: Low 70's
Texas hill country. We may have left the mountains, but there are still a few hills left before we get to Florida. On today's route we entered the hill country, following the West Neuces River then the Neuces River. The hills are low hills similar to the Appalachian Piedmont. The vegetation went from desert conditions in Del Rio, to shrubs with some grazing grasses, to mostly grazing land scattered with live oak trees. The first 60 miles were very barren, giving way to a few scattered ranches along route 55 as we entered the hill country.
The plan today was to meet in Bracketville at the grocery store and haul the food to camp, about 45 miles away, just south of Camp Wood. Having cooked the night before, and fixed breakfast and lunch foods that morning, I got a late start, just before Jim who was riding sweep. I took my time riding to Bracketville along highway 90. After a while I began to notice butterflies crossing the road from north to south. About 10 miles outside of Bracketville I started counting them; I saw 180 in that 10 miles, all but one headed south on the annual Monarch migration, headed to Mexico, an incredible journey for such delicate creatures.
Just before town I spotted a goat along the highway, having escaped from the fenced pasture. I made one attempt to find the owner, but the 'Beware of Dog' and 'No Trespassing' signs scared me off. Moments later there was a vulture feasting on a dead coyote by the side of the road.
When I finally found the store, most of the food was already being carried, so I tied a loaf of bread to my load and headed out with Oliver, Todd, and Bruno. They also left late, having had a night out at the Buzzards Roost with the younger riders. It was a bar adjacent to the RV park, and they watched baseball and played darts until after 11, way past their usual bedtime. We rode at our own paces, with Todd and Oliver in the lead, wanting to get to camp in time for a swim in the river. At one point I crossed the West Neuces River, a dry river of white stone where Suzanne and Jimmy couldn't resist taking a picture. I stopped just after that and there was near total silence, no cars or planes, just the sound of a few crickets.
Just before camp I saw my first armadillo, grazing by the side of the road. As I reached for my notepad to do a sketch, it scampered off. Moments later a road runner ran across the road then flew to a bush. We also saw a horned owl at dusk, spotted by Cyndi, the budding birdwoman.
Camp at Cooksey Park is one of the
best yet, a grassy spot right on the banks of the Neuces River, a
crystal clear river that several people swam in briefly, as it was
very cold. It is so nice not to be on a rocky, dusty site, allowing us
to spread our gear out and to sit out on the grass at night, as I'm
doing, overlooking the river and typing by my headlamp.
At the map meeting Spike told us how he was able to get the eggs boiled for our dinner. A restaurant at first agreed to do it but then became too busy so he saw an older woman in her yard and asked her if she would boil a dozen eggs. 20 minutes later she appeared with the eggs, and a Sprite and banana. Spike was so full from lunch that he gave them to one of the few homeless people we've seen. The eggs contributed to a good potato and veggie dish tonight.
Tomorrow is a short day to Vanderpool, with 2 steep climbs.
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