August 26, 2007, Sunday

Glacier National Park Day 2, Montana

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Today was the day I've been anticipating for a while; our ride on Going to the Sun Road. Since bicycles are restricted from 11 am-4 pm on the western approach to Logan Pass, we would need to finish the climb from Lake McDonald Lodge to the Pass by 11 am. From the lodge it's about 22 miles to the top. We planned to start at 7:30 am which would give us 3 1/2 hours, which meant we had to average a little over 6 mph. Sounds easy enough, although on many climbs our average is about 5-6 mph. Fortunately the first 8 or so miles of the ride was relatively flat.

Breakfast at the lodge opened at 6:30 am and there was a line of hungry cyclists waiting at the entrance. Thankfully it was a good breakfast buffet and we weren't shy about loading up our plates so we could get on the road as soon as possible.

As usual Kerie and I were among the last to leave, just after 7:30. We had prepared for a cold start but the temperature was mild and we donned light jackets without our extra layers. I packed my extra clothes in my panniers, and throughout the week I carried about 20 extra lbs. on the bike. There was little traffic along the shaded ride from Lake MacDonald to the first part of the climb. Before we knew it we were at The Loop, the one major switchback on the road.

Going to the Sun

One of the original plans for the road had called for many small switchbacks, and that road would likely have been much steeper than the present one. The grade of the current road is gentle, about 6%. Compared to many climbs we've done in the East, this was a relatively easy climb. It was a long, steady climb, with very steep dropoffs to the valley below, but we had little trouble making our way slowly to the top. I took many pictures. In other reports of bike rides on the road that I've read there are very few pictures. I assume most cyclists just enjoy the ride and don't stop as much as us to snap photos.

One feature of the road that was difficult to determine from the lack of photos was whether or not most of the road was bordered by a retaining wall. I had visions of riding right on the edge of the steep cliffs. There is a short stone wall along most of the road, which was a comfort since the ride from east to west put us on the outside lane. This being Sunday there was no construction. There were a few traffic signals at the one-way sections but we only had short waits.

We rode with some of the other riders for most of the climb. The faster riders were far ahead and we would see them later at the top. Just before we reached the top at about 10:40 a.m. the traffic picked up considerably. It's unfortunate that cyclists are banned in the middle of the day. We think they've got it all wrong. Cars should be limited to just a few times and bikes should be the norm. The new shuttle system seems to keep some of the traffic down, and we've heard that it's been popular since it's introduction.

Kerie and Penny Going to the SunMade it to Logan Pass before 11 amView from the Logan Pass Visitor's Center

We stopped for the obligatory picture at the top of Logan Pass, then went inside the visitor's center to warm ourselves at the fireplace, along with another single rider who had climbed from the opposite direction. He lives in Helena, MT and tries to get to Glacier several times a year. He told us about the strong headwinds and warned us that we would be facing a climb and headwinds later in our ride to Many Glacier Hotel.

After warming ourselves for a while and looking around the visitor's center we walked out the back door to see the spectacular view of the high valleys above. Many hikers were on their way up the various trails leading from the center. As we left the bathrooms I was asked to fill out a survey about the new shuttle bus system. It gave me a chance to let them know about our great idea for having bikes on the road at all times and doing away with most cars.

After the view from the top, the next best thing about climbing a mountain is the downhill. I had to keep the speed low since there were many turns and as I recall, not many retaining walls. I had visions of the 18 year old who had gone over the edge the previous week. He survived with minor cuts and bruises. Later the road straightened a bit and we could pick up some speed. My computer registered 53 mph as my top speed, but since Kerie only hit 35, I doubt that mine was accurate.

We enjoyed the downhill so much that we went right by the lunch spot. We did stop at the entrance to the lunch parking area debating about where it was located. Kerie seemed to think it was just down the drive at Sun Point. Penny seemed quite sure it was just beyond Sun Point so we headed downhill with a good tailwind that we would soon regret. About 2 miles down the road we saw Kathy who had missed the turn as well and was headed back the other direction. We all turned around, Kerie mouthing obscenities at me to let me know of her displeasure. It was a hard ride uphill into the wind but lunch was worth it: A good salad, chips, nuts, fruit, white brownies, and delicious huckleberry/blueberry pie. Kerie and I did not sit together.

Lunch at Sun PointDescent after lunchBruce at St. Mary Lake

The ride out of the park was one of the better rides in a while; beautiful scenery, a slight descent, and a strong tailwind. Somehow the tailwind continued as we headed north toward the town of Babb located on the Blackfeet Indian Reseveration. We made decent time to the Many Glacier turnoff, waving to our cohorts at the corner store as we made the turn into the wind. It was a long 12 mile ride to the hotel. Brandon caught up with us and was with us when we entered the park. From there we fought the wind, at times nearly getting blown off the bikes. At one point Kerie stopped in the middle of the road because of the wind. The hotel was a welcome sight, although going over the bridge just before the hotel we nearly lost it again.

Another view of St. Mary LakeBrandon herds the cowsFinally, Many Glacier Lodge

Several mountain goats greeted us as we entered the parking lot of the hotel. We were the last to arrive, and we discovered later that there were only 3 guests who rode the entire route, us and Mike from Georgia. We were tired and ready for a hot bath. We had dinner at the hotel after a brief wine and cheese party sponsored by the Bicycle Adventures crew. At dinner we got to know Lou and Rebecca from San Diego. Next to us sat a group of cyclists from Seattle that Doug the guide knows from his racing career. They were on a credit card tour carrying only small day packs. Tomorrow we ride 50 miles into Canada and Waterton Lakes National Park.

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