August 31, 2007, Friday

Icefields Parkway, Saskatchewan River to Sunwapta Falls

Previous | Next

Today we climbed Sunwapta Pass, the highest point on the Icefields Parkway at 6,676'. The total mileage for the day was 61. Once again we started the day with a good breakfast buffet, sitting with Bob and Penny of Colorado. Bob is a retired United Airlines pilot and he and Penny have done extensive bicycle touring, mostly self-contained, including a tour of the Blue Ridge Parkway.

As usual we were among the last to leave the motel. There was a slight headwind as we cycled along the North Saskatchewan River. The parkway was surrounded by high mountain peaks, including the Castlets, a range of rock spires. At one point what looked like a coyote ran across the road, pausing briefly to check out the approaching cyclists, then ran into the woods. We gradually climbed toward the pass. At mile 19 the serious climbing began. We stopped at the bridge overlooking the Saskatchewan River where two mountain sheep were grazing. Leading up to the pass is a wide loop just before the road tilts up at about 8 or 9% grade. Approaching the pass we could see other cyclists at the overlook near the top.

Alisa and Pete, with Castelets in the backgroundBeware of unexploded warheadsKerie cruising

On the bridge before the climbMountain sheep just before disappearing over the cliffKerie climbing Sunwapta Pass

Several of us stopped at the overlook, taking photos of each rider as they approached, and photos of the route and valley below. Once again the scenary was spectacular.

Atop Sunwapta PassEntering Jasper National Park

From the overlook the road tilts steeply up at a 12% grade that quickly turned into an 8 or 9% grade. As we reached the top the road leveled and it was difficult to tell where the summit was located, especially with no visible sign.

Lunch was at the Icefield Centre parking lot overlooking the Athabasca Glacier. One of the early arrivals from our group walked to the glacier, but most of us were glad just to sit and eat the warm soup and grilled cheese and pesto sandwiches. Several riders huddled in the van to try to keep warm. The wind had picked up and was whipping the flags flying nearby. Both Kerie and I were impressed with the toilet paper dispensers in outhouse; we laughed when we discovered that we both took photos inside.

Brandan gives a route rap at the Icefields Visitor CentreDon't want to run out of toilet paperDoug's footprints at Bubbling Springs

We had heard that Doug, one of the guides, had reached 63 mph on the descent after the Icefield Center. It's easy to believe as the road dips sharply. I was looking forward to it until at about 45mph the wind hit and nearly tipped my over. It was painful to have to use the brakes, but the wind continued to blow and I tried to use as much care as possible on the descent. I heard later that Kerie was stuck behind a slow RV and despite stopping to let it get ahead, had to stop twice for it.

The rest of the ride to the resort was uneventful, a gradual descent following the Sunwapta River. Despite the descent it was a tiring ride into the intermittent headwinds. We stopped at Bubbling Springs to take a photo of Doug's wet footprints on a rock beside the springs. He said he set a personal best record, submersed in the freezing waters for 30 seconds. He has had few takers on his challenge to recruit members of the Polar Bear Club. The pool is fed by cold underground springs that bubble to the surface through the mud bottom.

Sunwapta FallsOur last dinner togetherThe mighty Griz

Adjacent to Sunwapta Falls Resort are the falls, 1 km from the main road. The falls are incredibly powerful as the river is forced through a narrow rock passageway into a narrow gorge about 100 feet below. We left as a tour bus arrived.

The dart game was in full swing as we arrived back at the resort. After a couple of games of darts and a beer I returned to the room for a hot bath. Dinner tonight is a barbeque followed by a talk by a naturalist, our final dinner together. Tomorrow we ride to Jasper and then end the tour with a 6 hour shuttle to Calgary. (The trout and baked potato and salad were delicious and the naturalist, a private naturalist from Jasper, was informative and entertaining, discussing bighorn sheep ruts, elk antler growth (regrown each year), and the differences between black and grizzly bear. There was complimentary wine as well).

Previous | Next